ppf.

You can buy a corner sink -- think L shaped, and you can buy a corner sink base cabinet for use with a standard sink.

I don't understand your reference to a 24" depth.

Can anyone tell me if this sink will work on a corner?

You need to explain your cabinets. Is this what you are planning?

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As Judianna said keep a light color, beige/sand, close to the actual stone color. Try to use a nice mineral paint which will keep a natural aspect.

Work with your floor finisher. Ask about using a dye, and consider natural -- no added color as well.

One for a fireplace, one for a hot water tank. Both have to vent.

Combustion appliances like gas or oil fired water heater, or furnace need to vent. Sometimes a second flue is installed in a chimney for this.

Does your contract have a timeline specified?

Have a face to face meeting. Give them a deadline. Are you paying on milestones?

Talk to an attorney about filing a breach of contract suit against him asking for significant monitary damages for time lost on the enjoyment of your kitchen, especially because you're wanting to sell. That should get his attention......

Personally, I love your house just the way it is! Even if you change the color of the roof to charcoal I wouldn't change the trim. You could paint the shutters black to match the front door and roof. Beautiful home!

Drive through similar neighborhoods. You learn a lot about what works and what doesn't.

That's the way that style of house should look.

Along with the shutters, landscaping and maybe even a water fountain in the front yard.

Acorn Garden Fountain

Borghese in Basin Fountain

It's really not a detailed photo so it's hard to say, but since it is a federal style house I'd google that and see if your house is missing any typical features and add them. Don't try and make the house something it's not by adding non federal style features to it. I'll bet some fresh paint will help you grow to like the style more. But mostly what I think it needs is landscaping. And I highly recommend you invest in a professional to design it for you. It's worth the money and time you might spend getting it right. Good luck!

Inspectors for what? Typically electrical work will need a permit and inspecting, even if you are doing the work yourself.

Have no electrical outlets in my walk in closet and never thought of wanting one.

My walking closet is 14'x12' I have 2 AC supply's, that is more then enough and no electrical outlets.

Suggest your painters use a quality paint. I've covered a similar color with Sherwin Williams Duration in Extra White with a single coat.

Picture is Dunn Edwards Artichoke. I'll suggest a dark shutter and light trim.

Just about any color will work but white or gray is classic. What are your favorite colors?

Hudson Valley Farmhouse
19th C. Classical Revival

My fav color is green. Our home is surrounded by trees on a 3 acre lot. The siding is cedar. The front of the house faces the East. I wish a color specialist could look at my rural home and tell me the perfect color of green, blue, or brown to choose from:) Wishful thinking.

That's an excellent idea. If you must have glazing use double or triple pane. The more mass, the more sound will be absorbed. Lots of soft surfaces will also stop high and midrange sounds before they can propagate.

Talk to your door supplier, and I recommend a dedicated door and window store, or dedicated door company about Sound Transmission Class (STC), if available for the doors you are considering. It's a single-number rating of a material's or an assembly's ability to resist airborne sound transfer at the frequencies 125-4000 Hz. In general, a higher STC rating blocks more noise.

I have a feeling a solid core, or solid wood door will be best.

I often suggest painting the garage door to blend with the house, and the front door an accent color. A picture is needed to make an informed comment.

Here is a photo of my house, a different setup with the front door not really my focal point as my garage door is before my front door... thoughts again?

Take a color from your interesting brick for the garage door. I would also do the gable above the garage to match.

Consider white for the front door because of its location in the corner.

I would think that the stain would be much less maintenance than any paint. Your house is beautiful and I love the green shingles and trim. You could do a shade of red for the door to perk up the look. Add some red flowers in the landscape. Put red cushions on the chairs too, or at least something else red on the porch. Good luck!

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Picture is small and a bit dark, but house looks nice as is except for the lower right part. The white trim against the brick is too busy and detracts from the overall impression of the home.

No matter what other colors you choose, consider painting most of this trim to blend with the brick.

And no shutters.

Thanks for the advice!

Paint the trim and boards to match the roof

No more than any other color.

Your question is what. What is white...walls, cabinets?

will white chip more then other colors

What is the "Magnolia Farms Home"?

>>> Ideally, we'd order custom cabinets, but the cabinets we originally ordered are substandard

So why not order custom cabinets, or use 1, 18" and 1, 36" for 3 doors?

If the far left door hinged on the right, would it open fully?

What is so bad about 80 percent? Is there something that must be stored there that needs a fully open door?

If it were my home, I'd live with the limitation rather than the odd size.

Here are a couple of pics of where we are now. We are going to use a piece of maple for cabinet tops and stain them to match stair rail in the adjacent dining area.

second pic

Ceilings may be any color that works with the other colors. There are "ceiling white" paints, some people use a lighter version of the wall color, or you could match the trim.

I guess the trim will be some shade of white?

I agree. Use the pure white ceiling paint on the ceiling and the decorator in semi gloss

was thinking of that too... found "white diamond" for ceiling in flat ;~}
thanks so much !

Add photos by clicking in the comment box. Below it you can click the Attach Images button and browse boxes will come up. Load photos from your desktop or folder - one per button. You can also post them on your Houzz page for us to see.

When you write a comment, click Attach Images and you may add up to 4 pictures.

If you do purple, it should look purple and not black from a distance.

How about something like

I really think dark purple color would stand out and add personality!

Thanks all! With your help, I think I've decided to go with a very dark purple in semi gloss or gloss finish. This should give me the drama of a black door, but a little hint of color once people come up to knock. Will have big red pots by the door to give me an additional pop of color. I'll just have to save the red door for my some day lake house (a girl can dream!).

angiespitler - the siding is certainteed spruce

They are 2 very different woods. This is a question for your cabinetmaker as prices vary.

semi-custom suppliers use upcharges. I gave actual cost of wood....red oak and white oak are normally sold at the same price. $1.50 bd ft. plain sawn and about $3.50 for QSWN

of course where you live will effect the price of most species. I am in the upper mid-west where oak and cherry are plentiful.

It depends on how the floor is framed, and if there is easy access to the space, and how much the HVAC installer cares.

Be aware that curtains may blow in the breeze from the vents.

totally true apple pie order! Drove me crazy whenever system kicked on and my drapes billowed in the breeze. I actually would pull vents a few inches away from the wall just so drapes don't take sail.

Do you have a rendering or images of similar fireplace? What will the final finishes be?

I was curious, so I modeled it. Guessed at dimensions. The second and third I used 55" and 90" for the upper and lower parts.

And I do like the idea of concrete.

Maybe consider a gentle arc for the face? Image is looking down from above.

Another great idea, ppf.! Thank you bunnyllg...I think I will lower the mantle. I plan to do no drapes, just remote operated (battery) solar shades.

http://montanarockworks.com/stone_product_detail.php?name=Moose+Mountain+Ledge+Signature+Thin+Veneer&uuid;=7A36F-4AB9

^The most stunning real stone I have ever seen. Maybe a mantel that is of similar construction to the lower chord of your timber truss? 6' top to the mantel is a pretty nice compromise...

The entire space looks odd. Could you post a floor plan? Are those cabinets to the left? Is there a dead space in the corner left of the washer and dryer?

>>>> yes those are doors to hotpress on the left

Could you describe what a hotpress is? I googled, but did not find anything related to laundry.

An enclosed storage space, typically with slatted shelving and built around a house's hot water system to generate a low dry heat, used to dry damp clothing.

I can't pursue a redesign. It's all been paid for. My wife sat down with two different professional designers and looked at the possibilities. It's crap isn't it? So annoyed. It was such an afterthought and I had no time/energy at the time to get involved. I will again say though that the builder says he'll be able to build a chute receptacle closer to the time so maybe it won't look as strange as the one in the picture. If any genius here on Houzz wants to give a go at redesigning the space that would be great! I don't mind omitting ordered fixtures but definitely can't add extra. The sink isn't moveable either. Irritated with wife too!

Where in the southwest? Consider an unlandscaped landscape. Look to nature and repeat what you see.

I agree

Okay first no dark colors second for your bathroom floor use a tile but make sure it has texture to it for safety theres some new 5x12 rectangle at home depot and make sure to use a top brand sealer

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In cold climates like mine, it's not thought to be a good idea to have your shower plumbing run up an outside wall...agree with Haley that you need to get advice from a pro plumber in your area about this.

Post a picture of the area. What are your winter temperatures like? I the water coming in from above or below. How is it insulated elsewhere?

A dark gray or blue gray for the fascia. Choose colors from the brick for the body and Garage door. Match the dark brick for the siding, and a lighter brick for the garage door.

Yes, Patricia, the brick has sort of a white washed appearance....not my favorite. ; )

Sounds like the brick would be ok with a buff stucco exterior and a rusty red trim. Your house would be the envy of the block!

The dormers look like the right size but what's wrong is that they are too close together. Maybe add even 2 more of them...especially if they will double as skylights

Model a shed dormer to reflect the roof to the left. Match width of windows below, but only 3 panes high.

Looks fine as is. I would have chosen another color for the front door. Navy and black are too close together.

I'd stay with white and draw the eye to the front door and landscaping.

Paint it white

It will look strange IMO. The jambs should be the color of the doors as they function as a unit.

A dimensioned plan of the room showing doors, windows, closets etc is needed.

I would guess so. Post a picture of the doors.

The person in this article claims to be doing it. http://articles.chica

But now, where to find presealed double paned windows ?

Sorry, the link above doesn't work. Here's a better one (fingers crossed) http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/how-to-add-glass-to-solid-wood-door/

Take a better picture from the left front corner (facing the house) of the lot. This one is too dark.

Garage door needs painting, but unable to see house.

Your "header" is a gable, and no shingles -- they do not go with the style of the house.

Thank you everyone for your time and ideas- I truly do appreciate them all

Consult a local architect.

Yep, need plan with dimensions.

What's on the other side of that wall where the fridge is now? You might be able to cut out a section of the wall and make a little "closet" indention for the fridge. Or the wall to the right of the fridge might be more suitable for that type of solution.

If they are in good shape, then have them painted. I imagine they are birch, and flat? If you replace, keep the same style.

Small bump out for doors?

What type of siding?

What about the roof?

Where will your new home be located? The first question you need to answer is how are you going to insulate that huge metal box? If you will be in Climate Zone5 or higher, I would suggest you need to attach insulation to the exterior surface....a minimum of R25... PRIOR to installing vertical 1 x 3 lathe strips on which to hang your siding The compounding problem you will be faced with is what fasteners to use that can penetrate the steel box walls AND be structurally rigid enough to carry the weight of the cement siding?? I just finished a project where we applied these methods to a 1930's wood framed house so I am very familiar with the process but the steel skin will be a challenge! There are a bunch of other issues such as moisture and air infiltration and drying of all the various materials which really need to be looked at to create a "complete system"....the floor, walls and roof of any home need to work as a system if they are to work properly, stand up to the elements and stand the test of time...all while keeping you comfortable and healthy!

Here are three photos of wall mockups from the project we did plus in "in progress" photo. Think of your metal box as the wood 2x4's + plywood.....

Yes - we're doing it ourselves (mostly!). We're good at demolition and painting and decorating, but bring in professionals for important jobs (e.g. Electrics, plumbing, plastering and carpentry).

Bespoke (I believe that is your term) woodwork is usually done after walls and before the floor. Depending on the style, the carpenter may install grounds -- wood strips for the plasterers to plaster to. These provide a nailer and give the plasterer a guide work to. Especially useful in old, out of square/plumb/level structures.

What do you find "inefficient" about the kitchen?

Why are you "constantly bumping into each other"?

Thank you so much for the great comments. To answer the structural questions, moving any wall other than the pantry wall is not possible (they are are full cement block and back to the outdoors--the long wall behind the existing refrigerator backs to a pool area and the eating area opens to an outdoor deck (yes, the door opens out), the current sink wall backs to outdoors. Having lived with this for two years, the pantry is very inefficient and I would have no problem tearing out the connecting wall to the kitchen and eliminating the pantry door. I completely agree that it is too narrow to be fully functional. I also completely agree with the characterization of the fridge/oven as a "monstrosity", couldn't have said it better myself! I can't wait until it is gone.
The hall in front of the stairs (by the pantry) leads into the rest of the main floor.

Given the fact that I can't widen the room, I gave some thought to making the entire current refrig wall into an 18" deep base cabinet, 12" top cabinet storage wall. That would let me have two 42" walkways around a 28" wide island and still maintain my 24" base cabinets on the sink wall. I would then move the refrig to a counter-depth model on the back pantry wall (assuming I tear out the pantry wall abutting the kitchen). The new 18" deep wall would accommodate one, or even two microwaves. Ideally I would have a separate cooktop and single oven, but I suppose I could combine them in one unit, perhaps on the island?

The house is in Florida so from a purely practical viewpoint, I rarely use an oven. We use microwaves a lot and are tired of "waiting in line" for someone else to finish. I don't do a lot of stovetop cooking in the heat there either (prefer grilling outside). I hate the huge 3 basin sink and will switch to a regular two compartment one, or perhaps a single. I would consider a second sink on the island, if I have room.

Several people asked why we bump into each other, typically we are criss-crossing from the sink area to the fridge and microwave on the counter and we "crash" in the middle of the too large center walk area.

Your comments have given me a lot to think about and I am truly grateful!

This last idea of yours is excellent, and a very current concept (putting together a storage wall). Particularly if you can then eliminate the wall cabs on the window wall, to open up the space.

Why not just replace the door?

If you want to replace the glass block as well, a good carpenter could add on to a stock door creating whatever you want.

Try a door and window supplier instead of a box store.

We thought the glass block make the area look old; but I am starting to lean that way.

Hire carpenter and please remove the glass blocks.

The gray, and the pink since there isn't much of it. Go back with a single color.

Thanks decoenthusiaste :) the first example is gorgeous, I love the golden ochre house color. It would be fun to introduce some faux stone up the front of house too. The trim looks great, but I still think my house has much, much more ( eyebrows over windows bands on columns... ) it's hard to decide what should be emphasized or not.

Take some photos, copy them on paper and use some colored pencils or markers to experiment with where and where not to color the trim.

You may also buy longer levelers.

The cabinets and appliances need to be at the finished floor height. That way, the whole standard 36'' standard height thing works. You've got a construction issue, not an appliance issue.

We need a picture.

Checked with a decorator friend and took some measurements.

12" will be fine.

Stackback is generally 20-25% of the covered area, depending on the thickness of the drapery fabrics & linings combined. Therefore, if the area to be covered is 36" (not allowing for draperies to extend outside the window area), the stackback (amount of fabric that will cover the glass) will be approximately 9" which is divided into two since there are two panels. I allow a bit more if there are thick rings on the rod. You also will allow room for the finials. In this case, if you want to have the panels clear the glass when they are opened, you could extend the rod about 7" on each side of the window, which allows room for an average sized finial at the ends of the rod. Therefore, the rod will be 50", and the stack would be about 13", which is about 7" on each side, which means the panels will be able to clear the window for a full view and light.

Perfect SK, thanks!

Why do you want to distinguish one driveway from the other? Are the neighbors using more than their share?

How about a sign post w/ either your address or name? Can say something about u thru color or shape...

In your case perhaps a silhouette of your picture w/ your bright red hair color on the border

Why is there a seam if the piece is 123" long?

I would be less worried about water, and more worried with movement as that will be a very weak seam.

The tile floor is actually from Home Depot. I love it. I chose it over several much more expensive tiles. In fact, everyone who sees it wants it! You can see it here: http://m.homedepot.com/p/MARAZZI-Montagna-Saddle-6-in-x-24-in-Glazed-Porcelain-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-14-53-sq-ft-case-ULG5/203600174/

I went with the seam in the middle. There wasn't a clear answer from all the research I did so I chose the safest course. Worst case scenario is I'll put a tray in the middle with some rolled up towels or something :)

Thanks for everyone's time and opinion!

Over a year old

oops

Draw up and post a dimensioned floor plan for best response.

Looks like the bathroom could benefit from demolishing the wall currently separating the vanity and shower/toilet area.

Need picture to comment on repair.

Sand off the water damage first if possible.

what's the material of the cabinet

You will receive more comments if you post a floor plan with dimensions. Include the surrounding rooms as well. Does not need to be professional, just an accurate drawing is good.

It would be especially helpful to know the amount of wall space on both sides of windows and doors. What style of kitchen are you planning? Do you want to retain the period look, or go contemporary?

Thanks for your advice. I measured the kitchen and adjoining mudroom and dining room. I am attaching a layout of the kitchen with measurements and the dimensions for the dining and mudroom. We want to try to keep the period look, definitely want an apron front sink and would love a vintage stove ( have to convince my husband on that). Any plumbing and electrical work can be configured to the layout.

Definitely knock it down. A short wall will be adequate.

Check online or at your appliance dealer for a kit.

You do it with a stack kit after removing both pedestals.

Microwave drawer info here on houzz http://www.houzz.com/microwave-drawer

These are fairly expensive starting around $500 with the mid point being closer to $1000.

As with any built in, I would be concerned about repairs and eventual replacement.

I was not suggesting you expand the stove wall cabinets, simply consider offsetting the stove to provide a larger counter on one side.

Being right handed, I like to work to the left of the stove, and generally cook left to right. Counter space right of my stove almost never gets used.

We have a sharp drawer one for 3 yrs we love it!

Sharp was the only manufacturer of the drawer 3 yrs ago that I heard of

I would prefer the pedestal sink as the vanity cabinet looks odd -- if it fit between the walls it would be OK.

The dark waist high trim seems out of place as it does not match any other visible trim and serves no purpose. If this trim were painted and the upper wall was papered, or the lower was painted a slightly darker color, as example, this belt trim would make sense.

The decorated shelf really isn't needed -- the art is plenty, but maybe a piece that reflects the other colors in the room. The matting does not seem to fit colorwise, and the frame could be larger to complement the frame around the mirror.

Sorry to be so negative :(

I do like what you've done in the vanity area. The soft green of the towels look nice with the brown/beige.
I'm not keen on staggered art, purely a personal opinion :-)
And I would remove just about everything from the shelf and the toilet, maybe leave the votives and put the little bird up on the shelf.

There was a space saver before now there are shelves ,I like those better.

I believe your porch would look fine without the triangle (properly called a gable).

The problem we have is that the original house is from the 1890's and the original hallway is narrow and small. We don't use it. We only use the one from the driveway because is it very wide and long. We plan to do a walkway from the street to the new porch door. Hmmm still leave the original door?

I would leave the original door. I would go to your town's historical society to get ideas

It depends. You need to use the low point as a reference so the new drywall will be shimmed down. It needs to be in a corner or between 2 walls because otherwise it may be difficult finding a place to stop the repair. If you have access from above -- attic space for example, it may be possible to insert shims from above keeping the existing drywall. The cabinet installer would install the trim level, then the existing drywall is shimmed down until it contacts the trim.

Another option is to install trim level, then insert a filler between the ceiling and trim to fill the gap. The filler would be painted the ceiling color helping it read like the ceiling and not as part of the cabinets.

Please follow up with your solution.

A multi piece crown like you have is a cinch to disguise that if it's installed properly. You have one piece, usually a profiled stock piece, attached to the cabinets. Then the next piece starts to taper between the stock and the ceiling, and the third piece is installed tight to the ceiling. The taper is diguised over the length of the installation. It's de rigeur Kitchen Design 101, which tells me that both your KD and installers lack experience. I'd wonder what else they missed.

Start by painting the garage and front doors. Garage door should be similar in color to the siding, but not the same. Front door should be bright and not white.

Cannot tell the siding color from photo, so will not suggest a specific color.

What type of siding?

Thank you everyone for great suggestions. We are actually considering redoing the porch steps and walkway in bluestone. (Once I manage to convince DH to spent $$!). This being said, Would it be better to paint the front door bright color or go for solid wood look?

That is a personal choice - stain would be more traditional / paint more personality . . bluestone would be great on porch. You might paint while you consider the cost of a new stain grade door (don't get craftsman go cottage if you head that way - match the window muntin pattern on top half of door) . . .or if there is something higher on your priority list.

Try the FIND A PRO link at the top of the page.

Most designers that are 'good and creative" would cost more than average.