sstarr

Here is a porch roof option, using a split shed roof, clad with metal roofing.

You folks are really helping a lot, thanks. It seems everyone likes a shed roof better than a gabled one. I thought of gabled because it has more pitch and throws the snow to the side. Is it too hard to keep the dormer with a gabled roof? Also, I would like the porch to be 12 feet deep (16' wide). Sorry about the crayons, I wish I could do those cool graphics.

Mike

put mannikin heads in it to scare the neighbors

@refurbish & mariep...Love your kitchens!! Kindred spirits... :0)

I want a vintage fridge that can work as well & hold it's own aesthetically against my beast here...

1947 Nash-Kelvinator. @ 300lbs of pure love!

Adding trim: Without spending very much money, I think you could add greatly to the impact of your house by adding trim around the windows. Here is a mockup with trim placed around the second level windows, and adding corner boards.

Thanks sstarr for the mockup! I have thought about corner boards in the past - I know the old greek revivals have them and they are a nice contrast, but I never thought about molding for the top windows - you are so right here. The top is very plain - like it's unfinished. I wonder what style you have in mind for the molding on the top and bottom of the second story windows? I 've thought about running "dental" molding across the top - but my hubby isn't on board with the dental molding. There isn't much room up there.

This house has more space above the 2nd story windows - would this window trim work with what we have on the first story already? http://www.idreamhomez.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/exterior_window_shutters_-_selecting_the_right_wood_exterior_window_trim_designs_.jpg

Please DO NOT try painting these cabinets with BM® Paint if you are a DIY. You will only "ruin" these nice solid cabinets, and the end result would be horrific. I have been doing cabinetry for over 20 years now and we hold a very strong position in the market we serve, I have never once seen cabinets painted by a DIY without the proper tools and skills to come out attractive. To repaint these cabinets it must be done with a sprayer, proper sanding procedures and the doors painted and dried in a paint booth. We would never use BM® for repainting cabinetry, our first choice would be Mohawk® http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/, second is Sherwin-Williams® and finally if you are a BM® enthusiast then you should "ONLY" use BM ADVANCE®
Again I am not discouraging you from painting them but from a technical standpoint, you need to employ the appropriate techniques to ensure a quality piece, including prepping and finishing. “For solid overall painting, knowledge of paints, brushes, finishes and the kinds of woods you are working with is very important,”
Hope this helps! I personally would only add some glass to the scenario by routing out the center panel in the existing doors and installing glass inserts by spectrum glass® http://www.spectrumglass.com/ this is done by any local glass shop and the price is only around $20-40 a Sq Ft on standard patterns.

Possibly. You might be able to end up with something like this:

Thank you for the visual!!

temporary stick-on picture hanger hooks, made to come off without damaging the wall.
Or, ribbon tied around the cabinet, with a loop in the front.
Or, shorter fingernails.

Thanks! I'm working on shorter fingernails; one cabinet door at a time.....:)

I love a frameless shower enclosure . Depending on the overall look of the house - that should determine whether it should be tile or granite or something else as there are so many variables.
J Design Group, Miami Interior Designer - Coral Gables - South Beach - Sunny Isles - South Miami - Williams Island - Miami - Pinecrest - Modern Interior Design Firm in Miami, Florida - Ocean Front Contemporary Decorators - http://www.JDesignGroup.com

These questions depend on the size and layout of your room.
Can you post dimensions and a sketch?

black could look stunning depending on what color your counters are...

"But Is It Art?"

I wouldn't have a marquee in my home either but if I did it would be
"Lounge" with a neon martini glass!

with a blinking O and T -

We do 3-D designs for all of our design clients. It really helps them visualize the design we have in our heads.

I use Sketchup Pro to do visualizations for homeowners and designers. There are some simpler programs that can help individuals do a little designing, but there are tradeoffs in the accuracy of the final result.

Porcelain tile in a large size (12x24") at least... you can also get even larger sizes if you look at some Italian makers. Go to a very good tile store, and do some research online.

Travertine is now a dated look, and is high maintenance.... I would not do it.

Have your client look at photos on Houzz and set up an idea book.
Contemporary can mean just about anything, to different people.

Contemporary means "of the moment". Most people that say they want contemporary really mean modern but that can mean a lot of things too. In New England it usually translates to what I call transitional. Sstarr is right. You client needs more direction and definition. Houzz is great for that.

Hi Kimberly, contemporary design is what is "in" at the present time. For more information and to decide what design style is best for you, feel free to read my blog. http://bit.ly/1n5w0MC

It depends on what your current barn is like. Horses need far more head room for safety reasons.

Post pictures of your old cow barn.

You could insert a 12" full-height pull-out storage unit to the right of the fridge (good to do anyway because of the oven.)

4 inch returns on countertops are a dated look..
run the counter straight to the wall, caulk, then add tile above if desired.

Just tell your contractor, "Don't give me any lip!"

I think you need one or the other. Especially in a bathroom situation.

Hi---no you do not need a counter return (lip), but you should have 4" of some sort of tile to protect your walls in wet areas...
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Im always astonished at prices people ask for their work nowadays. Oy vey. $2200 additional? I would take one or two sides of the cedar off, carefully knock down the framing underneath with a hand plane and/or belt sander. Only about 1/64th. Then reinstall cedar but this time, use some brown urethane caulk spread on both miter halves. Make sure pieces fit tight before caulking. When you fasten the cedar back on, do not touch the caulk when it presses out of the miters. After its dry carefully score it away.