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Diary
from
Sendai,
Japan
(Part
I)
March
11,
2011
by
Braven
Smillie
Sendai,
before
the
earthquake
and
tsunami
that
struck
on
March
11,
2011
March
11
was
a
cold,
slow-‐moving
Friday
afternoon
at
our
home
in
Sendai.
As
a
freelance
writer
and
translator,
I
was
making
a
transition,
familiar
on
such
idle
afternoons.
Having
finished
a
bit
of
urgent
deadline
work,
I
was
shifting
gears
to
work
on
a
list
of
long-‐term
projects
with
more
vaguely
defined
objectives
and
prospects.
I
turned
to
a
hobby
for
a
few
minutes
to
pass
the
time
until
our
two
daughters
would
return
home
from
school,
and
routine
distractions
would
free
me
from
thoughts
of
work,
business
and
my
own
finances,
until
Monday.
Also
routine
was
a
brief
shudder
under
my
feet
as
I
stood
at
an
upstairs
bathroom
sink,
whittling
on
a
piece
of
dry,
white
clay
I
hoped
to
turn
into
a
porcelain
figurine.
Minor
earthquakes
are
commonplace
in
Japan,
and
having
lived
here
for
20-‐odd
years,
I
thought
nothing
of
it.
A
moment
later,
I
looked
up
from
my
work
to
take
notice
of
another,
more
assertive
shudder.
Though
still
faint,
this
one
had
an
insistent,
snatching
character
I'd
felt
before,
and
always
seen
as
subtly
menacing.
The
windows
whispered
rather
than
rattled,
and
all
returned
to
normal
-‐-‐
briefly.
An
aerial
photo
taken
of
fires
and
flooding
in
Sendai,
immediately
after
the
earthquake
and
tsunami
on
March
11,
2011
I
soon
set
my
sharp
carving
tool
down
on
the
glass
counter
as
the
floor
vibrated
again
in
a
fine
vertical
tremor
that
seemed
to
draw
out
longer-‐-‐
this
one
wasn't
fading.
As
I
had
done
hundreds
of
times,
I
decided
to
wait
and
see
what
was
in
store.
The
vertical
vibration
slowed
in
frequency
and
increased
in
intensity
as
horizontal
waves
began
to
snatch
at
the
floor
and
walls,
gently
at
first,
then
more
powerfully.
The
question
now
was
how
much
drama
would
be
appropriate
in
front
of
my
wife,
Chiaki,
who
was
at
home
with
me.
Do
I
dive
under
a
table,
covering
my
head?
Certainly
not!
Stand
under
a
doorway?
Reasonable.
As
I
stood
in
the
bathroom
doorway,
suggesting
that
Chiaki
do
the
same,
there
was
a
sense
underfoot
of
riding
a
skateboard
over
marbles
or
pebbles.
Disorienting,
but
ones
feet
could
still
be
trusted.
The
horizontal
and
vertical
vibrations
then
produced
wavelike
shocks
that
combined
into
crazed
twitching,
lurching
motions
of
all
frequencies.
My
worry
now
was
whether
I
could
make
it
down
the
stairs
to
the
entryway
of
our
home,
which
I
felt
was
the
most
structurally
safe
and
uncluttered
place
in
our
home.
As
the
rolling,
jabbing
motions
of
the
floor
and
walls
grew
beyond
all
past
experience,
I
felt
all
confidence,
all
sense
of
appropriate
earthquake
comportment
slipping
away.
No
longer
concerned
with
drama,
I
reached
for
a
railing
as
I
lurched
forward
over
the
top
steps
of
the
staircase.
I
do
not
remember
gripping
or
missing,
only
jolting
forward,
down
and
around
toward
the
entryway.
The
motions
became
more
rhythmic,
like
riding
an
overspeed
train
as
it
threatened
to
jump
the
rails
at
any
moment,
then
did.
I
briefly
negotiated
with
the
urge
to
cling
to
normal
concerns,
as
I
moved
a
sculpture
I'd
made
of
the
Madonna
and
Child
off
of
an
end
table
where
it
made
a
tottering
top-‐heavy
display.
As
I
placed
it
on
the
shifting
floor,
the
sound
of
big
things
falling
deep
inside
the
house,
and
of
shattering
glass,
snapped
a
last
tenuous
thread
connecting
to
the
delightfully
idle
concerns
of
a
minute
before.
“Chiaki?
Where
are
you
...
where
are
you?”
I
yelled
to
my
wife,
implying
that
she’d
better
be
under
a
table.
In
fact,
Chiaki
was
doing
her
best
to
form
a
right
triangle
with
her
body
in
efforts
to
brace
up
a
prized
antique
writing
desk
with
glass
cabinet
above.
do
not
remember
the
end
of
the
earthquake.
It
may
have
stopped
suddenly,
and
it
may
have
slowly
receded.
I
only
remember
putting
on
sandals
and
a
jacket,
then
wandering
out
into
a
light
snowfall
to
watch
the
evacuation
at
Takamori
Elementary
School,
where
my
daughters
Tina,
10
and
Elena,
7,
are
in
the
second
and
fifth
grades.
A
map,
showing
the
epicenter
of
the
earthquake.
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